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Basic knowledge of textile fiber classification and identification



1. Definition: Textiles are made of vertical lines on the loom The yarns of the two systems are interwoven according to certain rules, that is, the warp and weft lines sink and flo…

1. Definition: Textiles are made of vertical lines on the loom The yarns of the two systems are interwoven according to certain rules, that is, the warp and weft lines sink and float with each other according to certain rules, forming certain lines and patterns on the surface of the fabric. This kind of organization is called fabric weave.

2. Fabric weave classification:

① Original weave: It is a simple fabric weave, also known as basic weave. It includes plain weave, twill weave and satin weave.

② Small pattern tissue: It is formed by the combination of the above three basic tissue changes, such as mountain-shaped twill and sharp twill.

③ Complex tissue: It also includes double tissue (mostly woven into thick terry cloth, cotton velvet blanket, etc.), raised tissue (such as corduroy cloth), towel tissue (towel fabric), double-layer tissue (towel fabric) and leno tissue.

④ Large pattern tissue : Also called jacquard tissue, it often weaves beautiful patterns of flowers, birds, fish, insects, birds and animals.

⑤ Satin weave: The cloth surface is smooth but not strong, easy to scratch, and easy to fluff.

3. Density of fabric: Density refers to the number of warp and weft yarns per unit length of the finished fabric, usually expressed as the number of yarns in 10 square centimeters or 1 square inch. Common densities of bedding fabrics: 30S yarn 78*65, 78*54, 20S yarn 60*60, 40S yarn 90*90, 220*80, 133*72, 28S yarn 70*60, unit: root/1 inch.

4. Moisture regain of fabric, public weight.

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① Moisture regain = (wet weight – dry weight)/dry weight × 100%

Official moisture regain: cotton yarn 8.5%, cotton cloth 8%, polyester-cotton yarn 65/35 cloth 3.06%, polyester-cotton 50/50, cloth 4.2%

② Conventional weight: The weight of the fabric at a common moisture regain is the common weight.

2. Textile classification:

1. According to use, it can be divided into clothing use Three major categories: textiles, decorative textiles, and industrial supplies;

① Textiles for clothing include various textile fabrics for making clothing as well as various textile accessories such as sewing threads, elastic bands, collar linings, and linings and knitted garments, gloves, socks, etc.

② Decorative textiles have more outstanding characteristics than other textiles in terms of variety structure, texture pattern and color matching. They can also be said to be a kind of arts and crafts, which can be divided into indoor products, bedding and outdoor products, including home fabrics. and restaurant bathroom supplies, such as carpets, Sofa covers, chairs, tapestries, patches, image covers, textiles, curtains, towels, tea towels, tablecloths, handkerchiefs, etc.; bedding includes bedspreads, sheets, quilt tops, quilt covers, blankets, towel quilts, pillow cores, quilt cores, pillowcases etc. Outdoor products include artificial turf, etc.

③ Industrial textiles have a wide range of uses, many varieties, and common There are tarpaulins, gun jackets, filter cloths, screens, roadbed cloths, etc.

2. According to different production methods, it is divided into six categories: threads, belts, ropes, woven fabrics, and textile fabrics. :

① Thread: Textile fibers are spun into yarn, and two or more yarns are twisted into a thread;

② Ribbons: narrow or tubular fabrics, called ribbons;

③ Rope: multiple strands of wire are twisted together to form a rope;

④ Woven fabric: Fabrics woven with interlaced warp and weft are called woven fabrics;

⑤ Knitted fabrics: fabrics made of yarns intertwined into loops and directly formed clothing items are knitted fabrics;

⑥ Non-woven fabrics: Thin sheets formed by fiber laying without traditional textile processes are called non-woven fabrics.

3. Warp or weft of fabric

All kinds of fabrics have length and width. The length parallel to the edge of the cloth is called the piece length, and the direction of the piece length is the radial direction of the fabric; the length perpendicular to the edge of the cloth is called the width, and the width of the piece is called the width. The direction is the weft direction of the fabric. When weaving, the yarns used in the radial direction are called warp yarns, and the yarns used in the weft direction are called weft yarns.

4. Shrinkage of fabric

1. Shrinkage of fabric

The shrinkage rate of fabric refers to the percentage of fabric shrinkage after washing or soaking in water. Generally speaking, fabrics with large shrinkage rates are synthetic Fiber and its blended fabrics, followed by woolen fabrics and linen fabrics, cotton fabrics are in the middle and have larger shrinkage, and the larger ones are viscose fiber, artificial cotton, and artificial wool fabrics.

2. Factors causing fabric shrinkage:

① Different raw materials of fabrics have different shrinkage rates. Generally speaking, the fiber with high hygroscopicity will expand, the diameter will increase, the length will shorten, and the shrinkage rate will be large. For example, the water absorption rate of some viscose fibers is as high as 13%, while the water absorption rate of synthetic fibers is as high as 13%. The fiber fabric has poor hygroscopicity and its shrinkage rate is small

② Fabrics with different densities have different shrinkage rates. If the warp and weft densities are similar, the warp and weft shrinkage rates are also close. Fabrics with high warp density will have a large shrinkage in the warp direction. On the contrary, the weft density is greater than Fabrics with dense warp will shrink greatly in the weft direction

③ Fabrics with different yarn counts have different shrinkage rates. Fabrics with thicker yarn counts have larger shrinkage rates, while fabrics with finer yarn counts have smaller shrinkage rates.

④ Different fabric production processes have different shrinkage rates. Generally speaking, during the weaving and dyeing and finishing processes of fabrics, the fibers have to be stretched many times, and the processing time is long. The shrinkage rate of fabrics with greater tension will be greater, and vice versa.

5. How to identify fabrics:

The feel of fabric is an important content that people use to identify the quality of fabric. Specifically, using The psychological response to the feeling of touching fabrics varies depending on the type of fabric and the quality. The hand feel of the fabric also has the following aspects:

① Whether the fabric body is stiff or loose; ② The surface of the fabric is smooth or rough; ③ The fabric is soft or hard; ④ The fabric is thin or thick; ⑤ The fabric is cold or warm; ⑥ The fabric is irritating and irritating to the skin none A less irritating feeling. For example: silk fabrics feel cool when touched; pure wool fabrics feel warm; fine cotton fabrics that feel fine and smooth are mostly made of high-count yarns; those that feel rough are mostly made of low-count yarns. Yarn fabrics

In addition, people can also use force to stretch, scratch and other movements with their hands, and then through eye observation and hand feeling, they can judge the elasticity, strength, wrinkle resistance and fiber type of the fabric. But in general, feel is an important factor when purchasing fabrics and clothing.

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