Shenghong Group Zhang Jianguo Qian Qinfang Wu Zhonghua Chen Ting
Nylon fiber has excellent strength and wear resistance, with a moisture regain of 4.5% to 7%. The fabric feels soft, light and comfortable to wear, and has good wearing properties. It occupies an important position among synthetic fibers. In recent years, with the development of superfine fibers, the added value of nylon and nylon blended fabrics has been greatly improved, such as lightness and comfort. They are especially suitable for making outdoor sports fabrics, such as mountaineering suits, swimsuits, etc.
High-density nylon fiber fabrics are pre-processed by cold padding; when preformed at 185°C, 20g/L anti-yellowing agent RUCOGEN NOX is added; dyed with acid dyes, anti-UV finishing agent CEL is added; when water- and oil-proof post-finishing, an appropriate amount of RUCOGEN NOX is added The joint agent CA-A-01 is added to improve its durability; and a certain pressure calendering treatment is performed to improve its resistance to diamond lining. By analyzing various factors of the process, relevant precautions are put forward. The high-density nylon fiber fabric produced by this process has a soft feel and soft luster. It has super water-repellent and washability, anti-ultraviolet and anti-drying properties, which increases the added value of the product.
Foreword
Nylon fiber has excellent strength and wear resistance, with a moisture regain of 4.5% to 7%. The fabric feels soft, light and comfortable to wear, and has good wearing properties. It occupies an important position among synthetic fibers. In recent years, with the development of superfine fibers, the added value of nylon and nylon blended fabrics has been greatly improved, such as lightness and comfort. They are especially suitable for making outdoor sports fabrics, such as mountaineering suits, swimsuits, etc.
Apply waterproof, oil-proof and anti-fouling finishing agents to nylon fabrics to change the surface properties of the fabric (reduce the surface tension of the fabric), thereby obtaining effects such as anti-contamination and easy decontamination; through calendering post-treatment, the fabric’s resistance to corrosion can be further improved. Improved velvet properties to better apply to down jacket fabrics.
This article briefly introduces the functions of outdoor sports fabrics, such as the development of super water-repellent, UV-resistant and windproof products.
1. Process flow and testing methods
1.1 Fabric
Fabric: Fully matted FDY 22.2 dtex/24 f nylon filament (sizing) × fully matted FDY 22.2 dtex/24 f nylon filament 770 strands/lOcm×740 strands/10cm, 162cm, 55g/m2 (plain weave in Tsudakoma Weaving on series water-jet looms).
1.2 Process flow
Unwinding and seaming→Desizing pre-treatment (cold stack, open-width desizing and washing)→Pre-forming→Dyeing (anti-UV finishing, ultra-waterproof nanomaterial pre-treatment)→Color fixation→Dehydration→Opening→Post-finishing (baking Dry, waterproof stenter setting) → calendering, inspection, fabric coding and packaging.
1.3 Test method
(1) Water repellency is measured using the YH286 fabric moisture meter according to AATCC 22-2005 “Spray Method for Testing Water Repellency of Textiles”;
(2) Oil repellency: According to AATCC 11.8-1997 “Oil Repellency: Hydrocarbon Resistance Test”, the oil repellency of the fabric is measured;
(3) Breaking strength is measured according to the method of GB/T 3923.1-1997 “Textile Fabric Tensile Properties Part 1 Determination of Breaking Strength and Breaking Elongation”;
(4) Tear strength is measured according to the method of GB/T3917.2-2009 “Tear Properties of Textile Fabrics Part 2: Pants Type Samples (Determination of Single Seam Tear Strength”;
(5) Seam slippage is measured according to GB/T13772.2-2008 “Determination of yarn resistance to slippage at seams of textile woven fabrics – Part 2 Constant load method”;
(6) Washing resistance is measured according to AATCC 135-2010 “Dimensional changes in fabrics during home washing”;
(7) Air permeability is based on GB/T5453-1997 “Testing of Air Permeability of Textile Fabrics”. Measure 10 times on different parts of each sample and take the average value;
(8) Rubbing fastness According to GB/T3920-1997 Textile Color Fastness Test and Rubbing Color Fastness”, use the Y507L rubbing fastness meter to measure the rubbing fastness before and after color fixation;
(9) The UV protection performance is measured according to GB/T18830 “Evaluation of UV Protection Performance of Textiles”;
(10) Color fastness to washing is in accordance with IS0105/C06: 2010 “Textiles Color Fastness Test Part C06: Color Fastness to Domestic and Commercial Laundering.” A2S》Measurement;
(11) Color fastness to perspiration is measured according to IS0105/E04: 2008 “Textiles Color Fastness Test Part E04: Color Fastness to Perspiration”:
(12) The lint resistance is measured according to GB/T12705.1-2009 “Test Methods for Anti-Drilling Properties of Textile Fabrics Part 1: Friction Method”.
2. Discussion on dyeing and finishing technology
2.1 Pre-treatment of desizing
2.1.1 Cold pile
Our factory uses cold stack technology + high-efficiency open-width desizing and washing for pre-treatment.
Process prescription/(g.L-1):
Liquid caustic soda 100
Degreaser TF-115C5
Four-in-one scouring agent TF-1705
Liquid carrying rate/%30
Temperature/℃24
Time/h36
2.1.2 Efficient water washing
Generally, nylon fabric weaving slurry contains silicone oil lubricant, which needs to be treated before degreasing. If the gray fabric is not degreased, the silicone oil will be cross-linked during high-temperature setting and adsorbed on the nylon yarn, which will seriously hinder the dyeing of acid dyes during dyeing, resulting in dyeing.
In the pre-treatment tank of the open-width desizing machine, additives for desizing, emulsification, and preventing the slurry (oil, wax) from being stained back are added to the pre-treatment tank of the open-width desizing machine, and with the help of the high-frequency ultrasonic oscillation function of the water washing tank, the cold stack is completed. The gray fabric is washed with water to remove the slurry, oil and impurities that have been degraded, saponified, emulsified and alkali hydrolyzed on the fabric during the cold stacking process, thereby accelerating the chemical degradation of oxidation products and alkali hydrolysis to prepare for subsequent dyeing.
Treatment technology/(g.L-1):
Oxidation desizing agent TF-127K5
Chelating dispersant TF-188A2
Degreaser TF-1262
Liquid caustic soda 20
Temperature/℃98
Vehicle speed/(m.mm-1)80
2.2 Preforming
Nylon fiber has a high degree of crystallinity. Through pre-shaping, the arrangement of the crystalline and amorphous areas can be ordered, reducing or eliminating the uneven stress produced by the nylon fiber during spinning, drafting and weaving processes, which is effective Improve dyeing uniformity. Pre-shaping can also improve the flatness and wrinkle resistance of the fabric surface, reduce the wrinkles and fabric shrinkage wrinkles caused by the fabric during dyeing, and increase the dimensional stability of the fabric in subsequent processing. However, the elasticity of nylon fabrics will be damaged under high temperature conditions, and the terminal amino groups are easily oxidized (acid dye chromophore groups), destroying the dyeing properties of nylon fabrics. Therefore, during preshaping, 20g/L anti-yellowing agent RUCOGEN NOX was used to pad the white nylon fabric.
Table l RUCOGENNOX anti-high temperature yellowing effect
|
Results
|
Unformed
|
Use anti-yellowing agents 190℃ setting 60s |
No anti-yellowing agents are used 190℃ setting 60s |
|
Whiteness |
82.03 |
79.3 |
40.23 |
During pre-shaping, 20g/L anti-yellowing agent RUCOGEN NOX is used to pad the nylon fabric. Different pre-shaping temperatures have an impact on the coloring rate and tearing strength.
The anti-yellowing finishing agent RUCOGEN NOX is a polymer compound that contains various types of antioxidant active groups on the molecular chain. The active groups generated by its decomposition under high temperature conditions can capture the degradation of nylon fabrics under high temperature conditions. free radicals, cutting off the free radical chain reaction, thereby preventing the formation of conjugated colored compounds and reducing the yellowing of nylon fabrics under high temperature conditions.
As can be seen from Table 1, direct high-temperature setting without anti-yellowing finishing, the whiteness of the cloth surface is greatly reduced; while using high-temperature anti-yellowing agent RUCOGEN NOX, the yellowing phenomenon of the cloth surface is significantly reduced, which shows that the anti-yellowing agent It has a good protective effect on fiber.
The preforming process is determined as follows:
Anti-yellowing agent RUCOGEN NOX/（g.L-1）20
pH adjuster RUCO-ACID ABS/（g.L-1）2
Liquid padding rate/%30
Temperature/℃180
Vehicle speed/(m.min-1)60
2.3 Dyeing and UV-resistant finishing
2.3.1 Dyeing
Nylon products are usually processed in weakly acidic dye bathsIn dyeing, leveling is achieved by controlling process parameters such as leveling agent, dyeing temperature, heating rate, and pH value of the dye liquor. In order to improve the water-repellent, oil-repellent and anti-fouling properties of fabrics, the anionic additive ECO-EVER (containing dispersant) is added during the dyeing process. This additive is a polymer nanomaterial. With the help of the dispersant during dyeing, the nanoparticles can be highly dispersed between yarns, between fibers and on the fiber surface. In the post-finishing waterproofing process, the anionic additive ECO-EVER and the organic fluorine resin form a thin and dense film on the fiber surface to prevent further penetration of oil stains, greatly improving the water-repellent, oil-repellent, anti-fouling properties and durability. Washability.
Nylon fabrics generally have poor UV resistance, so UV absorber CEL can be added during dyeing. This additive has strong selective absorption of ultraviolet rays and can convert energy to reduce its transmission and improve fabric quality.
Take dark brown as an example
Process prescription:
A)
Glacial acetic acid/(g.L-1)1.5
Anti-UV absorber CEL/% (omf)4
ECO-EVER/% (omf)5
Acid leveling agent TF-217F/(g/L-1)2
B)
Acid navy blue M-R (Ya Yun)/%(omf)1.35
Acid Yellow M-2R (Ya Yun)/%(omf)3.35
Acidic sauce red M-B (Yayun)/%(omf)1.15
C)
Anionic color fixing agent NBS (Tona)/(g.L-1)2
Glacial acetic acid/(g.L-1)2
pH value 4～4.5
2.3.2 Color fixation
In order to improve the wet treatment fastness of nylon fabrics dyed with acid dyes, the anionic color-fixing agent NBS was used to fix the color of nylon-dyed fabrics (brown). The effect of the dosage of anionic color fixing agent NBS on color fastness performance is shown in Tables 2 to 5.
Table 2 Effect of the dosage of anionic fixative NBS on rubbing fastness
|
Dosage of color fixing agent NBS/(g.L-1)
|
Rubbing fastness/grade |
|
|
Do it |
Wet |
|
|
0.0 |
4 |
3～4 |
|
1.0 |
4～5 |
4 |
|
2.0 |
4～5 |
4 |
Table 3 Effect of the dosage of anionic color fixing agent NBS on washing fastness
|
Dosage of color fixing agent NBS/(g.L-1) |
Original change/level |
Stain/Grade |
|||||
|
Wool |
Nitrile |
Polyester |
Jin |
Cotton |
Acetate |
||
|
0.0 |
4～5 |
4 |
4～5 |
4～5 |
4 |
4～5 |
4～5 |
|
1.0 |
4～5 |
4 |
4～5 |
4～5 |
4～5 |
4～5 |
4～5 |
|
2.0 |
4～5 |
4～5 |
4～5 |
4～5 |
4～5 |
4～5 |
4～5 |
Table 4 Effect of the dosage of anionic color fixing agent NBS on alkaline perspiration fastness
|
Dosage of color fixing agent NBS/(g.L-1) |
Original change/level |
Stain/Grade |
|||||
|
Wool |
Nitrile |
polyester |
Jin |
Cotton |
Acetate |
||
|
0.0 |
4～5 |
3～4 |
4～5 |
4～5 |
3 |
4 |
4 |
|
1.0 |
4～5 |
4 |
4～5 |
4～5 |
3～4 |
4～5 |
4～5 |
|
2.0 |
4～5 |
4～5 |
4～5 |
4～5 |
4～5 |
4～5 |
4～5 |
Table 5 Effect of the dosage of anionic color-fixing agent NBS on acid perspiration fastness
|
Fixation dose/(g.L-1) |
Original change/level |
Stain/Grade |
|||||
|
Sheep |
Nitrile |
polyester |
Jin |
Cotton |
Acetate |
||
|
0.0 |
4～5 |
4 |
4～5 |
4～5 |
3～4 |
4～5 |
4～5 |
|
1.0 |
4～5 |
4～5 |
4～5 |
4～5 |
4 |
4～5 |
4～5 |
|
2.0 |
4～5 |
4～5 |
4～5 |
4～5 |
4～5 |
4～5 |
4～5 |
It can be seen from Tables 2 to 5 that NBS color fixing agent can improve various color fastnesses, and the effect is good when the dosage is 2.0g/L. NBS color fixing agent is a polymer compound containing sulfonate groups, which can be bonded with the terminal amino groups of nylon fibers to form slightly soluble or water-insoluble salts, forming a network structure on the fabric and blocking the water solubility of the dye. group, coating the dye, preventing the dye from ionizing and dissolving in water and falling off, and improving the color fastness. The fixing agent is an anionic additive with a large molecular weight (negatively charged). Due to hydrogen bonds and van der Waals forces, the fixing agent adheres to the fiber surface, and the acid dye itself is negatively charged. Since the two repel each other, Reduce the migration of dyes from inside the fiber to improve fastness.
2.3.3 Anti-UV finishing
When dyeing and processing 400T nylon textile fabric with brown color, 2% (omf) and 4% (omf) anti-UV finishing agents were added respectively to test the anti-UV performance. The results are shown in Table 6.
Table 6 Anti-UV finishing agent and calendering effect
|
Effect
|
No anti-UV Finishing agent |
1% anti-UV
Finishing agent |
4% anti-UV
Finishing agent |
4% anti-UV finishing
Conditioning agent + calendering |
|
UPF value |
9 |
22 |
34 |
44 |
|
UVA transmittance/% |
19.9 |
9.3 |
5.1 |
3.5 |
|
UVB transmittance/% |
4.5 |
2.5 |
1.8 |
0.9 |
|
UPF rating |
<15 |
20 |
30 |
40 |
It can be seen from Table 6 that when no anti-UV additives are used, the anti-UV ability of nylon fabric is poor; when 4% anti-UV finishing agent is used, the anti-UV ability of the fabric is significantly improved, and the fabric is tighter after calendering. Better anti-UV effect.
2.4 Post-processing
2.4.1 Waterproof, oil-proof and calendering finishing
Use waterproof and oil-proof finishing agent CN-A-03 to improve the water-proof and oil-proof washing resistance. As mentioned in Section 2.3.1, the nanomaterial ECOEVER added during dyeing cooperates with the cross-linking agent and the water-repellent finishing agent. The dosage of the cross-linking agent is 10% of the dosage of the water-repellent finishing agent. The results are shown in Table 7.
Process prescription/(g.L_1):
Waterproof and oil-proof agent CN-A-0360
Penetrating agent CN-A-022
Cross-linking agent CN-A-016
Silicone body softener Megasolt JET-LF2
Rolling residue rate/%30
Pre-baking temperature/℃100
Pre-drying speed/(m.min_1)50
Baking temperature/℃170
Baking speed/(m.min_1)60
Table 7 Effect of cross-linking agent on the waterproof, oil-proof and washable properties of fabrics
|
Craftsmanship
|
Waterproof and oil repellent ／(g．L-1) |
Initial |
Wash 10 times |
Wash 30 times |
|||
|
Oil repellent/grade |
Water repellent/minute |
Oil repellent/grade |
Water repellent/minute |
Oil repellent/grade |
Water repellent/minute |
||
|
General Craftsmanship
|
40 |
90 |
3 |
80 |
1 |
0 |
0 |
|
60 |
100 |
5 |
90 |
2 |
50 |
O |
|
|
After calendering |
90 |
4 |
80 |
1 |
0 |
0 |
|
|
Improvement Craftsmanship
|
40 |
90 |
4 |
90 |
3 |
80 |
2 |
|
60 |
100 |
5 |
100 |
4 |
100 |
4- |
|
|
After calendering |
95 |
5- |
90 |
4- |
80 |
3 |
|
It can be seen from Table 7 that in the conventional process, as the number of washing times increases, the water- and oil-repellent effect of the finished fabric decreases. This is because after washing, part of the water-repellent finishing agent with a low degree of cross-linking is washed away, the fluorine content on the surface of the fabric decreases, and the surface film becomes discontinuous and uneven, so the water-repellent and oil-repellent effect of the fabric decreases. In the improved process, the addition of cross-linking agents and nanomaterials has basically no effect on the initial water- and oil-repellent effect of the fabric, but the washability is significantly improved. This is because the reactive groups at both ends of the cross-linking agent can react with the fiber and the water-repellent finishing agent respectively, forming a three-dimensional network structure on the fiber, which increases the frictional resistance of slipping between fiber molecules; and the addition of anionic nanomaterials makes it more This performance is enhanced and the removal of fiber surface finishing agent during water washing is reduced.
2.4.2 Calendering finishing
Calendering finishing is when the fabric passes through the nip point composed of an elastic soft roller and a metal hot roller. In the pressure zone, due to the deformation of the soft roller and the change in roller diameter, a slight difference in the angular velocity of the fabric is caused, causing micro-sliding. Through surface shearing and rubbing, , causing the fibers to be heated in the nip and reach the glass transition temperature, thereby plasticizing and “flowing”, and being gently rubbed, so that the tightness of the fabric surface becomes consistent, and the fabric surface in contact with the metal roller is smoothed and reduced. The gaps between small interweaving points achieve ideal fabric air tightness and fabric surface finish.
The main technical parameters that affect the fabric calendering effect include the number of nip (two rollers or three rollers), production speed, fabric tension control, line pressure, hot roller temperature, etc. Using appropriate process parameters, namely linear pressure 60kN/m, vehicle speed 50m/min, and hot roller temperature 165°C, the product quality requirements can be met.
2.4.3 Effect of water and oil repellency + calendering on the mechanical properties of fabrics
According to the optimization process, nylon was finished with different amounts of finishing agents. The various properties of the finished fabric are shown in Table 8.
Table 8 Mechanical and physical properties of nylon fabric after finishing
|
Waterproof and oil repellent ／(g.L-l) |
Breaking strength/cN |
seams�Shift／mm |
Tear strength/cN |
|||
|
Latitude |
Meridian |
Latitude |
Meridian |
Latitude |
Meridian |
|
|
0 |
435 |
420 |
2 |
2 |
3.9 |
4.3 |
|
40 |
415 |
402 |
2.6 |
3.1 |
7.6 |
7.9 |
|
60 |
395 |
375 |
3.1 |
3.6 |
9.3 |
9.1 |
|
After calendering |
367 |
345 |
2.5 |
2.8 |
8.9 |
8.7 |
It can be seen from Table 8 that afternylon fabrics are treated with water-repellent finishing agents, the breaking strength decreases and the tearing strength increases. This is because the finishing agent can form a smooth film on the surface of the fiber, which reduces the frictional resistance between yarns, makes it easy for yarns to slip, and enlarges the stress triangle area, which increases the tearing strength of the fabric. improve.
2.4.4 The effect of calendering on the air permeability and lint resistance of fabrics. Although the air permeability of the fabric is greatly reduced, it has little effect on the moisture permeability of the fabric. The lint resistance is significantly improved and reduced. The use of chemical coating additives is eliminated (see Table 9).
Table 9 Anti-drilling effect and air permeability of nylon fabric after calendering
|
Waterproof and oil-proof agent／(g．L-1) |
BreathabilityMm/S |
Moisture vapor permeability/[g.(m2.24h)-1] |
Velvet/root |
|
0 |
5.1 |
11203 |
35 |
|
60 |
4.2 |
10 198 |
26 |
|
After calendering |
2.1 |
9 805 |
11 |
|
Coated products |
1.1 |
6 209 |
5 |
3. Conclusion
(1) Cold pile pre-treatment is used to pre-treat high-count and high-density nylon fiber fabrics. The entire fabric process is run with low tension to reduce the occurrence of wrinkles.
(2) Anti-yellowing agents are used during pre-shaping to protect the easily oxidized groups of nylon fibers and reduce high-temperature yellowing, but the dye uptake rate of the fabric will be reduced.
(3) During dyeing and processing, adding UV absorbers can improve the UV resistance of nylon fabrics and improve the quality of the fabrics.
(4) For water- and oil-repellent products with high requirements on wash resistance and fabric feel, an appropriate amount of cross-linking agent and tear fastness enhancer JET-LF can be added to the finishing solution. As a result, the breaking strength of the fabric is reduced and the tearing strength is increased, without affecting the waterproof durability.
(5) Calendering will have a certain impact on the physical properties of the fabric (breaking strength, seam slippage, tearing strength), initial waterproofness and washability, but it will not affect the performance of the fabric product. After calendering, high-density nylon fabrics can achieve excellent velvet resistance without the need for coating.
References:
[1] Ji Ping, Liu Li, Sun Junhe, etc. Effect of structural parameters on the properties of nylon fabrics [J]. Chemical Fiber and Textile Technology, 2010, 39 (4): 4-7.
[2]He Xiuling. Test method for UV resistance retention of textiles[J]. Printing and Dyeing, 2010, 36 (13): 36-41.
[3] Wu Ruozi, Wang Shugen, Wu Jin. Nylon fabric pre-treatment technology [J]. Printing and Dyeing, 2006, 32 (2): 20-22.
[4] Wan Zhong, Wang Yuhuan, Wang Jianqing. Cold pile continuous pre-treatment technology for cotton knitted fabrics[C]. Proceedings of the 10th National Technical Exchange Conference on New Materials, New Processes and New Products in the Printing and Dyeing Industry. Shanghai, 2011, 04
[5] Zhou Guangyong, Zhang Xiaochun, Liu Jinhua. Application of DM series anti-yellowing agents on nylon fabrics[J]. Printing and Dyeing, 2009, 35 (14): 41-43.
[6] Yang Dongke. Current status of ultraviolet shielding and finishing[J]. Printing and Dyeing, 2002, 28 (3): 38-43.
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