Yarn measurement for woven fabrics
⑴. Weight per square meter of natural cotton fabric: refers to the weight per unit area of the fabric, generally expressed in grams per square meter (g/m2). Commercially simple calculation method. For example: cotton fabrics are generally in the range of 70 to 250 g/m2; the weight of denim (combed) wool fabrics is about 185 g/m2; thick tweed (carded) is about 280g/m2; thin silk fabrics are generally in the range of 70 to 250 g/m2; Between 20～100 g/m2. The weight per square meter of natural cotton fabric is also one of the quality indicators for evaluating the physical properties of fabrics, which is more important for wool fabrics. In the “Ministry-issued” standards for combed wool fabrics and wool-type chemical fiber fabrics, it is stipulated that if the square meter weight is too light, it cannot exceed the agreed tolerance (stipulated as 5%), and it is designated as a first-class product; if it exceeds 5%, it does not exceed 7%. It is a second-class product. ⑵. Calculation method according to (moisture regain factor should be deducted): Where: GK — square meter weight under the official moisture regain rate (g/m2) GO — dry weight of sample (g) WK — Conventional moisture regain of the sample (%) L – sample length (cm) B – sample width (cm) Excerpts of the conventional moisture regain (WK) of commonly used spinning yarns are as follows: Cotton yarn: 8.5% Combed wool yarn : 16% Carded wool yarn: 15% Polyester/cotton yarn (65/35): 3.2% (3) Calculation method of square meter weight based on approximate fabric structural factors: Where: NtT – Warp Tex number ( Number) NTw – Weft Tex number (number) PT – Warp density (root/10cm) PW – Weft density (root/10cm) This calculation formula is an approximation, it does not take into account the bending and bending of the spinning yarn. Elongation and weight changes of fabric during finishing. (Note: The Tex number (number) refers to the weight (g) of a 1000-meter-long spinning yarn at a public moisture regain.) (4) One square meter of cotton cloth without pulp dry weight: where: G——The pulp-free dry weight of one square meter of cotton cloth (grams); Gj——The dry weight of the warp yarns of one square meter of cotton cloth (grams); Gw——The dry weight of the weft yarns of one square meter of cotton cloth (grams); Pj——The dry weight of the cotton cloth of one square meter Warp yarn density (roots/10 cm); Pw – weft yarn density of cotton cloth (roots/10 cm); gj – standard dry weight of warp yarn spinning (g/100 meters); gw – standard dry weight of weft yarn spinning (g /100 meters); Fj——total fly rate of warp yarn; aj——shrinkage rate of warp yarn; Sjz——total elongation rate of warp yarn; aw——shrinkage rate of weft yarn. Among them: 1. The standard dry weight of warp and weft yarns (g/100) = metric number * 0.92166 / 10 or = 53.74 / imperial number 2. The weight of the strands is calculated according to the combined weight. 3. Total elongation of warp yarns: The sizing single yarn is calculated as 1.2% (of which winding and warping are calculated as 0.5%, and sizing yarn is calculated as 0.7%). Sheung Shui stock line 10 below No. 2 is calculated as 0.3%, and No. 10 above No. 2 is calculated as 0.7%. 4. The elongation of indirect weft yarn is small and can be ignored. 5. The total warp yarn fly rate: 1.2% for coarse size (count) fabrics; 0.6% for medium size (count) plain weave fabrics, 0.9% for twill fabrics; 0.8% for fine size (count) fabrics; thread fabrics Based on 0.6%. 6. The total elongation of warp yarns, the total fly rate of warp yarns and the weaving shrinkage rate of warp and weft yarns are the basis for calculating the weight of one square meter of fabric, and are not prescribed indicators. However, the above formulas are all from the perspective of technicians who are actually doing sales. How can they have time to go to the trouble of using computers to calculate item by item when facing customers? ? ? Therefore, it is best for marketers to adopt the following formula, (you can understand it above) a simple formula for marketers to adopt: effective width * warp density / warp count * coefficient (0.065) * warp yarn price is the cost of warp yarn. Use Effective width * weft density / weft thread count * coefficient (0.065) * weft yarn price is the cost of weft yarn. Use warp yarn cost + weft yarn cost + weaving finishing fee = external quotation. The weight of natural cotton cloth per square meter and the finished product per square meter Square meter weight conversion. The weight per square meter of natural cotton fabric and the weight per square meter of finished product, if calculated by a formula, may deviate greatly from the actual situation. The main reasons are from two aspects. The setting of gray fabric can be calculated by formula, as long as the conditions are closer , the results are more accurate, because weaving is a physical change, from gray cloth to finished cloth, after multiple dyeing and finishing processes, the fabric undergoes physical and chemical changes, the variables increase, and various types of machinery are involved during the process. Processes, etc., have resulted in different specifications and standards for each company. Therefore, each company has its own standards for the conversion of the weight per square meter of natural cotton fabric and the weight per square meter of the finished product. How to calculate the conversion formula for website building companies? It is recommended to collect the company’s past results from embryonic fabrics to finished fabrics, and then use computers to screen the results as standards. Then, evaluate their usefulness based on the company’s production conditions, and then set a conversion formula. Example reference: (general cloth, general weaving, dyeing and finishing process) embryo weight == order finished product weight x embryo weight coefficient cloth embryo weight coefficient plain weave 92%, double beads 88%, double garments 89%, single beads 93%, unit garments 89% Tentacle plain weave 100% Towel 106% Double-sided 88% Tentacle rib 91% Rib 83% Tentacle light core 92% Light core 87% Cost accounting of woven fabric Raw material cost of fabric Calculation of warp raw material cost = Warp density X width X warp material (D)/9000X (1 weaving shrinkage and process shrinkage) X (1 raw material loss rate) Shrinkage and process shrinkage)�S, then pass one unit first. D=5315/S There are two raw materials for weft wire, then you need to understand the arrangement of the two raw materials. Then calculate the amount of yarn used for each raw material in proportion. For example, the weft wire arrangement is A5B3A6B4 Then when calculating the A weft material, the weft density is calculated according to the weft density of natural cotton cloth The shrinkage rate of chemical fibers in the shrinkage process is 5% to 30%; Cotton’s is 8% to 12%. This coefficient is proportional to the increase in weft density and twist of the fabric, and inversely proportional to the lengthening of the warp float. Raw material loss, if it is warp and weft The uniform rate is 4% to 5%, and if the warp and weft are not universal, the rate is 6 to 8%. Then the total cost of the natural cotton cloth = the raw material cost (warp and weft). The weaving cost is mostly determined according to the weft density of the natural cotton cloth. The water jet machine is in 4~8 points/weft, this is related to the geographical location of the weaving mill and the difficulty of product finishing. Cost of finished fabric = cost of natural cotton cloth Calculation 1. Warp usage = (P (warp density) X D denier ) = ( ) g/M If the warp and weft are both pure silk, the general refining reduction rate is 25%, which is about the same for polyester. The rest of the shrinkage rate, twist shrinkage rate, refining shrinkage rate, etc. all depend on experience. Note: If there are two strands in the meridian, it should be DX2. 2. Weft thread usage = (P (weft density) Width: Inner width D1 Among them: P1 is the original warp/weft density; P2 is the new warp/weft density, D1 is the original warp fineness (thickness); D2 is the new warp fineness. Example: If you have a piece of cloth in your hand, the weft is 20/cm, If the fineness is 100D polyester and it is to be replaced with 150D polyester, how many weft threads will the newly designed fabric have? P1÷P2=D2÷D1 →P2=P1XD1÷D2 →P2=20X100÷150=13.33 pieces. The weight is calculated without considering the shrinkage, refining and twisting rates of new and old products (and assuming the reed width is 100). Old: G=20X100X100÷9000=22.22g New: G=13.33X150X100÷9000=22.22g The weight of new and old fabrics is equal. 5. D Denier = weight/9000 (cm) S British count (inches) Denier and British count conversion D = 5315/S N Metric count (linen, wool) Denier and public count conversion D=9000/N can be derived from the above two formulas: S=0.591N; N=1.692 Sdtex D=9 dtex
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