Woven fabrics are divided into types according to their weaving structure
Satin and sateen weave A fabric weave in which individual weave points on two adjacent warp or weft yarns are evenly distributed but not continuous. Satin weave is divided into two types: warp surface satin weave and weft surface satin weave. It is a complex type of Sanyuan organization. A single weave point in a satin weave is covered by the float lines of two adjacent warp or weft yarns. The surface of the fabric is smooth and even, the texture is soft, full of luster or slightly textured. Satin weave fabrics are widely used and are often used as quilt tops, clothing, shoe uppers, and decorative fabrics. The satin weave can be expressed by a fraction. The numerator represents the number of spinning threads in a weave cycle, referred to as the number; the denominator represents the fly number. The warp fly number is used for warp satin weave, and the weft fly number is used for weft satin weave. The number of yarns spun in a satin weave loop should be no less than 5. The fly number should be greater than 1 and less than the number of yarns spun in a weave cycle minus 1. The fly number and the weave cycle number should be prime numbers to each other. Commonly used satin weave yarns are 5, 8, 12, 16, etc. The larger the yarn count, the longer the floating length of the yarn on the surface of the fabric, the better the finish, and the softer but firmer the fabric. The worse the fastness. The surface of warp-faced satin fabric is mostly covered by warp yarn floating length. In order to highlight the warp yarn effect, the warp direction tightness must be greater than the weft direction tightness. Generally, the ratio of warp and weft tightness is about 5:3, such as Drikong cloth. , plain satin, etc. The surface of weft satin fabric is mostly covered by weft yarn floating length. In order to highlight the weft yarn effect, the warp tightness must be smaller than the weft tightness. Generally, the ratio of warp and weft tightness is about 2:3, such as horizontal satin, etc. . In order to make satin fabric soft, yarns with less twist are often used. The direction of spinning yarn has a certain influence on the appearance of satin fabric. The warp yarns of warp satin or the weft yarns of weft satin are twisted in the same direction as the grain direction of the fabric weave, and the surface of the fabric will be smooth, such as horizontal satin. If the direction of these spinning yarns on the cloth surface is opposite to the direction of the texture of the fabric, the surface of the satin fabric will show texture, such as Drikong cloth. Based on the satin weave, many satin weave variations can be evolved. For example, adding single or multiple weave points around the warp or weft weave points forms a reinforced satin weave; using different fly numbers within a weave cycle to form a variable satin weave, such as six variable satin weaves. The number of fly directions is 2, 3, 4, 4, 3, 2; extending the warp or weft weave points to form a heavy satin weave, which is often used in handkerchief weaving. The combination of satin weave and other weaves can form satin poplin, satin handkerchief and other fabrics.
twill weave
twill weave twill weave
Continuous warp (weft) weave points on adjacent warp (weft) yarns are arranged in diagonal lines, and the fabric surface shows a continuous diagonal weave pattern. The number of spinning threads in one weave cycle of twill weave is at least 3. Weaving twill fabric is more complicated than plain weave fabric and requires at least 3 pages of heald frames. The emergence of twill fabric marks a major progress in weaving technology and fabric structure. China already had fabrics with twill patterns in the Yin and Shang Dynasties. Qi and damask in silk fabrics are all woven with twill and its variations. Twill weave is widely used, such as khaki, serge, and gabardine in cotton and wool fabrics, and beautiful silk in silk fabrics. Twill weave has a larger warp (weft) floating length than plain weave, so the fabric structure is softer under the same yarn number (count) and warp and weft density. Only by configuring a larger warp and weft density can a fabric with a tight structure be obtained. There are three types of twill weave: warp-face twill with most warp weave points, weft-face twill with most weft weave points, and double-sided twill with equal numbers of warp and weft weave points. The diagonal direction of twill can be divided into right diagonal and left diagonal. Generally, twill weave is represented by a fraction and an oblique arrow. The diagonal direction of the twill weave is mainly selected based on the direction of the spinning yarns that constitute the diagonal weave on the surface of the fabric. If the twist direction and the diagonal direction of the texture are opposite, the diagonal lines will be clearer, otherwise the diagonal lines will be blurred. Therefore, use “Z” to twist single yarns as warp and weft yarns. When using warp twill weave, you should choose left twill; when using weft twill weave, you should choose right twill. On the basis of the twill weave, a variety of twill weave structures can be evolved by adding warp and weft weave points respectively, changing the weave diagonal direction, flying number, or adopting both methods at the same time. ① Reinforced twill: It is formed by adding warp and weft weave points on the basis of twill weave. Commonly used are double-sided reinforced twill; ② Laminated twill: It is generally a twill weave with a large number of weave cycles, and the surface of the fabric shows a set of Twills with different widths and depths; ③ Angle twill: changing the value of the fly number can change the inclination angle of the texture twill. Commonly used is a weave with an inclination angle greater than 45°, coupled with a larger warp density to make the diagonal lines of the texture full and steep. Combed woolen fabrics such as chocolate and bonnet are angle twill; ④ Mountain twill: The diagonal lines in the left and right directions are arranged into a mountain-shaped texture); ⑤ Broken twill: The diagonal lines in the left and right directions are arranged in a certain direction. A tissue that requires arrangement so that the diagonal lines of the texture are abruptly interrupted. In addition, there are shaded twill, diamond twill, curved twill, etc., most of which are named after texture images. Twill weave is one of the main structures used to increase texture patterns. Plain weave is a fabric weave in which warp and weft yarns are interlaced in an up-and-down pattern. It is the simplest of the three original weaves. The plain weave consists of two warp yarns and two weft yarns forming a weave cycle, which is represented by the fraction □. �The front and back sides of the fabric with a ribbed weave have the same appearance, with many interlacing points between the warp and weft yarns. It is widely used, such as plain cloth, poplin and canvas in cotton fabrics, plain cloth in wool fabrics, taffeta in silk fabrics, linen fabrics in linen fabrics, as well as industrial and defense fabrics, etc. The warp and weft yarns in plain weave fabrics adopt different raw materials, yarn numbers (counts), twist, twist direction, color, warp and weft yarn density, and change the number of warp threads inserted into each reed, etc., so that the fabric can obtain various appearance effects , and then through different finishing processes, various designs and colors are formed, such as tassels with fine warp and thick weft, georgette made of strong twisted yarns, hidden stripes and hidden grid fabrics made of different twisted yarns, and weaving with different warp tensions. Strips of seersucker, etc. Based on the plain weave, extending the weave points along the warp or weft direction, or both directions at the same time, expands the tissue cycle, and can evolve many plain weave changes, such as warp-heavy flat, weft-heavy flat and square weave. A variety of fabrics can be woven with these weaves, such as linen yarn woven with □ weft heavy flat weave, board fabrics woven with □ square weave, etc.
Changing Organization
1. Plain weave variation: The plain weave variation is based on the plain weave. 2. Twill change structure: the mountain-shaped twill can be obtained by changing the direction of the twill grain in a short distance (including warp mountain-shaped twill and weft mountain-shaped twill). It is based on air twill weave. Herringbone tweed in cotton fabrics, coats, women’s tweed, etc. in woolen fabrics often use mountain twill. In addition to the above three types of twill variation weaves, there are also common weaves such as broken twill weave, sharp twill weave, slow twill weave, zigzag twill weave, rhombus twill weave, curved twill weave, and reed mat twill weave. 3. Satin weave change weave: The satin weave change weave is based on the satin weave in the original weave, and is formed by increasing the warp (or weft) weave points, changing the weave points, or extending the weave points. Among them, the reinforced satin weave is formed by adding single or multiple warp (or weft) weave points around a single warp (or weft) weave point of the original satin weave. The variable satin weave is based on the general satin weave and is formed by changing the weave points. When weaving some scraped fabrics, satin-backed gabardine and other fabrics, satin weave is often used to change the structure.
Joint organization
A joint organization refers to a new organization formed by combining two or more original organizations or changed organizations in various ways. The formation method of the joint organization can be a simple merger of two organizations, or it can be an alternating arrangement of two spinning yarns, or it can be to increase or decrease the organization points on one organization according to the rules of another organization, etc. The grid organization in the joint organization is obtained by the juxtaposition of two or more organizations. Due to various organizations. Their fabrics have different appearances, so juxtaposing them creates the appearance of clear strips or checks on the surface of the fabric. Strip weaves are often used in the weaving of colored fabrics, sheets, handkerchiefs, scarves, tweeds and other fabrics. In addition to strip weaves, there are also crepe weaves, perforated weaves, honeycomb weaves, convex strip weaves, mesh weaves and other fabrics. Plain weave jacquard tissue, etc.
Complex weave
A complex weave is composed of one system of warp yarns and two systems of weft yarns, or two systems of warp yarns and one system of weft yarns, or two or more systems of warp yarns and two and two systems of warp yarns. The weft yarns of more than one system are interlaced and are used in clothing, decoration and industrial fabrics. Fabrics woven with this structure are thick and dense, which can improve the wear resistance and fastness of the fabric, make the surface of the fabric fluffy, or meet certain special requirements. Commonly used complex organizations include the following.
1. A double weave consisting of two systems of warp yarns (surface warp and inner warp) interlaced with one system of weft yarns is called a warp double weave; a weave consisting of two systems of weft yarns (surface weft and inner weft) The weave formed by interlacing the warp yarns of a system is called a weft double weave. When weaving sarong fabrics using this kind of structure, the front and back sides of the fabric can have the same or different appearance, and the two sides of the fabric can have stripes or patterns of different colors. The warp double weave is often used to weave high-grade combed wool fabrics, and the weft double weave is often used to weave high-grade combed wool fabrics. Heavy weaves are often used to weave fabrics such as blankets and heavy woolen fabrics.
2. Double-layer weave The double-layer weave is composed of two systems of warp yarns (surface warp, inner warp) and two systems of weft yarns (surface weft, inner weft) interlaced to form upper and lower layers of fabric that are parallel to each other. These two layers of fabric can be separated from each other or connected to each other. By connecting only the two sides of the upper and lower layers, a tubular fabric can be formed. By connecting only one side of the upper and lower layers, a double-width fabric can be woven on a narrow loom. By using two or more colored yarns as the inner and outer warp and weft yarns, and exchanging the inner and outer layers according to the designed pattern, a pattern with inner and outer color changing can be obtained. By joining the upper and lower layers of tissue together, a jointed double-layer fabric can be obtained. Double-layer weaves are often used to weave wool fabrics such as thick coats and papermaking blankets, and cotton fabrics such as double-layer shoe upper fabrics and anti-blocking hoses.
3． Raising tissue The raising tissue is composed of two system warp yarns (ground warp, wool warp) and one system weft yarn, or one system warp yarn and two system weft yarns (ground weft, wool weft) interlaced. The former uses warp yarns to form the pile on the surface of the fabric, which is called warp pile fabric, and the corresponding tissue is called warp pile tissue. The latter uses weft yarns to form plush on the surface of the fabric, which is called weft pile fabric, correspondingly.The weave is called weft pile tissue. When weaving a raised fabric, two layers of ground fabric, upper and lower, are formed on the loom at the same time. The distance between the two layers is the pile height of the two layers. After the fabric is cut and piled, it is divided into two independent layers of raised fabric. Fabrics such as plain silk and plush are all woven with raised tissue. When weft-raised woolen fabrics are woven, the weft float formed by the interlacing of pile weft and warp yarns is covered on the surface of the fabric. After the pile is cut, the weft float is cut open, and the pile is formed after finishing. Corduroy, dry velvet, tweed and other fabrics are commonly woven with weft pile tissue.
4. Towel Weave Towel weave is composed of two systems of warp yarns (ground warp, wool warp) and one system of weft yarns. The ground warp and weft yarns are interlaced to form a base fabric with loops attached, and the pile warp and weft yarns are interlaced. With the help of the special let-off and beat-up mechanisms of the loom, loops are formed and covered on the surface of the fabric. Face towels, pillow covers, bath towels, towel quilts, etc. are all made of towel tissue.
5． Leno weave Leno weave is composed of two systems of warp yarns (ground warp, twisted warp) and one system of weft yarns, which are interlaced on the loom with the help of special heddle device and draw-in method. Sometimes the twisted warp is interlaced with the weft yarn on the left side of the ground warp, and sometimes it is interlaced with the weft yarn on the right side of the ground warp. Because the twisted warp is twisted left and right, there is a large gap between the weft yarns at the twisting point to form a twist hole. Leno weave is the general term for yarn weave and Luo weave. When only one weft yarn is woven in every time the warp changes its left and right position, it is called a yarn structure. When three or more odd-numbered weft yarns are woven in every time the warp changes its left and right position, it is called Luo weave. Some summer clothing, curtains, mosquito nets, screen silk and other fabrics are made of leno weave.
Large pattern weave
Large pattern weave is also called jacquard weave. The characteristic of this kind of weave is that the number of warp threads and weft threads in a weave cycle are generally counted in dry terms. Most of the time, one weave is used as the ground weave, and another weave is used to show the pattern. Different internal and external structures, warp yarns and weft yarns of different colors can also be used to show large colorful patterns on the surface of the fabric. Large pattern tissue must be woven on a jacquard loom. Large jacquard weave is divided into two types: simple jacquard weave and complex jacquard weave. The former uses one kind of warp yarn and one kind of weft yarn, and uses the original weave and small weave to form the pattern. The latter has more than one kind of warp or weft, and uses double weave, double-layer weave, towel weave, leno weave, etc., to form a large pattern weave alone or in combination with other weaves. Jacquard terry quilts, jacquard blankets, and many jacquard fabrics in silk fabrics are all woven with large patterns.
AAAGFHJTYJUTI
Extendedreading:https://www.tpu-ptfe.com/post/9347.html
