The relationship between fabric tightness and fabric geometric structure
The tightness of regular weave tight fabrics can be calculated according to the regular fabric tightness calculation formula. The calculation results and hj/hw values of each structural phase are listed in Table 4-4 (dj=dw=d). Table 4-4 can be drawn into Figure 4-12, in which the structural points of the same structural phase of each organization are connected to form isostructural phase lines. From Table 4-4 and Figure 4-12, we can draw the following concepts about organizational characteristics. (1) The structural phase (around the 5th phase) located near the equal support surface has a smaller tightness than the plain weave. In this case, the plain weave easily makes the fabric achieve a tight effect. (2) In the ninth structural phase and the first structural phase, the warp (weft) direction tightness of the satin weave fabric is small. In this case, the satin weave tends to make the fabric obtain the effect of the warp (weft) supporting surface. (3) For fabrics with warp support surface structure (fabrics with weft support surface structure can also be analyzed similarly), the structural phase rises from the 5th phase to the 6th phase, compared with the rise from the 8th phase to the 9th phase, although both It is a structural phase change, but the magnitude of the meridional tightness change is very different. Each change of one structural phase near a high structural phase requires a large change in meridional tightness. This phenomenon is called phase effect sluggishness. Taking 2/2 twill fabric as an example, when the structural phase changes from the 5th to the 6th phase, the warp tightness only needs to be increased by 4.8%, while when the structural phase changes from the 8th to the 9th phase, the warp tightness needs to be increased by 4.8%. The tightness is 19.3%. It can be seen from this that for various types of fabrics on the warp support surface, increasing the warp tightness does not increase the structure in equal proportions, and if the warp tightness is too large, it will inevitably increase the consumption of raw materials and production difficulties, and even make the fabric The feel is too stiff. According to the relationship between structural phase and tightness provided in Figure 4-12, the following geometric structure concepts are proposed for cotton fabric design for reference when designing fabric specifications.
(1) The warp tightness of poplin fabrics is <83.4% (close to the 7th structural phase). (2) The warp tightness of gabardine fabric is <91% (close to the 8th structural phase). (3) The warp tightness of khaki fabric is <107% (9th structural phase). (4) The warp tightness of Drikong fabric is <105% (9th structural phase).
AAAFGHTYHCGER
Extendedreading:https://www.china-fire-retardant.com/post/9387.html
