A hybrid of wool and silk fibers
(1) Impurity content of wool Wool is a natural fiber with a lot of impurities, which is mainly related to the growth environment and feeding conditions of the sheep. The main impurities contained in raw wool are fat, sand, ash and plant matter. Their presence not only affects the processing of wool, but also affects the quality of yarn and the appearance of fabrics. Therefore, the above-mentioned impurities must be removed during the initial finishing of raw wool, that is, the raw wool must be washed to become scoured wool. The impurity content of wool can be reflected by the net wool percentage. In international trade, to calculate the net wool rate, it is necessary to accurately measure the moisture, oil, vegetable matter and ash content in washed wool, and compare it with the internationally stipulated standard amount. If it does not meet the regulations, it must be included in the wool quality. deduct. In foreign countries, drilling sampling is often used to conduct net gross rate tests. Use a drill to extract a certain weight of raw wool samples from the bag. After cleaning, use the washed wool standards according to certain regulations, and use the washed wool as the basis for calculation, which is called the wool base. The usual calculation formula of net gross rate: Net gross rate is an important indicator to evaluate the economic value of wool. It is closely related to factory cost accounting and the amount of wool used in fabric products. (2) Impurities in silk Every silk is composed of two main substances – silk fibroin and sericin. Silk fibroin is the main body of the fiber, and sericin coats the silk fibroin to protect it. Secondly, there is a small amount of wax and fat, which can protect the cocoon silk from atmospheric erosion. In addition, it also contains a small amount of pigment and ash. The contents of the above substances are not fixed and often vary with the variety of silkworm cocoons and feeding conditions. The material composition of general mulberry silk and tussah silk can be found in Table 1-11. Among these constituent substances, only silk fibroin is required for silk fabrics. Sericin and other components that make up silk need to be removed later. Because sericin has the function of protecting silk fibroin, generally fabrics do not remove sericin until they are dyed and finished. During the silk making process, the amount of sericin in the cocoon silk should be reduced to less dissolution and loss, so as to facilitate the protection of silk fibroin and enhance the wear resistance of raw silk in weaving and finishing. This kind of fabric is called raw fabric or raw material. There are also some cooked fabrics that are made from raw silk to remove sericin (called refined silk) and then weaved and finished. The fabrics are called cooked fabrics or cooked goods. This process is generally adopted for fabrics that require multiple colors, because the types of colors required cannot be satisfied in fabric coloring. The content of sericin in the inner and outer layers of each cocoon silk is different. Generally, the content of sericin in the cocoon silk gradually increases from the inner layer to the outer layer. Therefore, when making satin silk, attention should be paid to the combination of the inner and outer cocoons to stabilize the fineness (denier) of the raw silk. The sericin content of tussah silk is much less than that of mulberry silk, so when finishing tussah silk, great attention must be paid to the cohesion of silk fibroin fibers.
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