Requirements for yarn quality in blank weaving
1. Requirements of different fabric structures for the quality of spinning yarns
Due to different fabric structures, the yarn defects of the spinning yarns used for weaving and the appearance rate of the yarn defects on the cloth surface The requirements are not exactly the same. Generally speaking, among pure cotton fabrics, extra-fine fabrics have higher requirements than medium-coarse fabrics; plain weave fabrics have higher requirements than twill fabrics; and thin fabrics have higher requirements than ordinary fabrics.
1. Requirements for spinning yarn quality of plain weave fabrics
The density ratio of warp and weft yarns on the surface of plain weave fabrics is generally close, the cloth surface is flat, and the fabric structure is 1/1, so for the warp and weft yarn density The evenness requirements of yarns are relatively high, among which the evenness requirements of wrong weft, coarse warp and weft yarn are stricter.
2. Poplin fabric
Poplin fabric has high warp density and low weft density. The warp floating points on the fabric are granular, and the fabric structure is 1/1. It has higher requirements on warp yarn strength and stricter requirements on weft yarn evenness, slubs and neps.
3. Twill fabric
Twill fabric has a tight structure, high warp density, low weft density, stiff body, clear twill texture, and the fabric weave has 2/1, 3/1 and 2/2. It has higher requirements on the strength and evenness of the warp yarns, and stricter requirements on the evenness and neps of the weft yarns.
4. Satin fabric
1) The front of the Zhigong Zhigong fabric is mainly formed by warp yarns. There are often five three-flying Zhigong yarns and five two-flying Zhigong two yarns. This kind of fabric has a thick surface and a tight twill effect. Some of the five three-piece flying yarns have to be soft and smooth. The fabric weave has 5/3 and 5/2 warp satin weave. The main feature of Drigong fabric is that most of the warp yarns appear on the front side of the cloth, and the quality requirements for the warp yarns are relatively high (such as fewer defects such as tight warp, loose warp, neps, and loose ends).
2) Henggong The front of Henggong fabric is mainly formed by weft yarn, and the cloth body is soft and clean like silk. The fabric weave is 5/3 weft satin. The main feature of Henggong is that most of the weft yarns appear on the front side of the cloth, and the quality requirements for the weft yarns are relatively high (such as fewer defects such as neps and weft shrinkage).
5. Extra-fine fabrics
Extra-fine fabrics refer to fabrics whose warp and weft are below 10tex (count 60 and above), and most of them are combed cotton yarn Threads and fabrics are mostly high-end products. Because the spinning yarn is thin and the fabric quality requirements are high, the requirements for yarn defects such as rovings, slubs, evenness, neps, oil yarns, colored yarns and soot yarns are extremely strict.
6. Thin fabric
Thin fabric means that the warp yarn arrangement tightness and weft yarn arrangement tightness of the fabric are both below 50%, especially the weft yarn arrangement tightness is between 45% and 45%. fabric below. Due to the sparse density of warp and weft yarns, various defects are highly visible on the cloth surface, especially defects in the weft direction, such as stripes, thick wefts, slubs, etc., which are more prominent.
7. Yarn-dyed fabrics
1) Mitong cloth: Mitong cloth is usually one colored yarn and one white yarn in the warp direction (or two warp yarns of different colors) The woven cloth is also made of one colored yarn and one white yarn (or two warp and weft yarns of different colors) in both the warp and weft directions.
Due to its weaving characteristics, the yarn defects of Mitong cloth are obviously exposed on the cloth surface, and the requirements for the evenness, hairiness and neps of the yarn used are very high;
2 ) Youth cloth: Youth cloth is usually woven from one colored yarn in the warp direction and one white yarn in the weft direction. The warp and weft yarns are of the same thickness.
Youth cloth is similar to Mitong cloth. Due to obvious exposure of yarn defects, the requirements for neps of spinning yarn are high.
8. Polyester-cotton/cotton-polyester interlaced fabric
Cotton-polyester/polyester-cotton interlaced fabric has uniform polyester filaments, which contrasts strongly with the cotton yarn and causes yarn defects. The exposure is prominent, especially when doing single dyeing, which requires very high twist, neps, evenness and hairiness of cotton yarn.
2. Requirements for spinning yarn quality without weaving tightness
Due to differences in fabric structure, the weaving tightness of fabrics with different tissues will also vary. Different weaving tightness will put different requirements on the quality of spinning yarn.
Infer the difficulty of fabric weaving based on the tightness of the fabric:
Tightness = warp density/√warp yarn count + weft density/√weft yarn count
Plain weave 1/1 is difficult if it exceeds 38
Twill 2/1 is difficult if it exceeds 42
Yarn card and double-sided twill 2/2 3/1 exceeds 45 is difficult
Satin 4/1 More than 47 is difficult
For difficult fabrics, strong yarns should be used, and three-in and four-in reeds can be used for high density fabrics.
3. Different printing and dyeing finishing requirements for spinning yarn quality
1. Bleached blank
After the natural color cotton cloth is bleached, the surface of the cloth will be clear and white, so in Residual defects on the cloth surface are more likely to appear, especially some oily and colored defects (such as slubs, oily yarn, oily yarn, colored yarn, soot yarn, “three silks” and foreign fibers, etc.) that must be paid special attention to. Chemical fiber blended chemical fiber fabrics and pure textile products have higher whiteness, so they have higher requirements for the above defects.
2. Printing blanks
Printing blanks are roughly divided into two categories: dyed background printing and white background printing. Dye-back printing is due to the difference in printing and dyeing on the cloth.Due to the luster pattern, general oil stains, colored yarns, oily yarns, soot yarns, uneven evenness and other yarn defects and some weaving defects on the surface of natural cotton cloth can be covered up; white background printing can cause the cloth surface to show white. There are relatively many, and the requirements for the above-mentioned yarn defects are stricter, and sometimes the requirements are even equivalent to those of bleached blanks.
3. Colored blanks
Colored blanks are divided into two categories: light-colored blanks and dark-colored blanks. Because of its lighter color, light-colored blanks have higher requirements for oil stains on the cloth surface, yarn defects such as colored yarns, oil yarns, soot yarns, “three yarns” and foreign fibers; dark-colored blanks are darker, and they have higher requirements for colored yarns, Yarn defects such as oil yarn, soot yarn, and uneven evenness are highly concealed, but yarn defects such as snakeskin silk, neps, dead cotton, etc. are required to be higher.
Conclusion: There is no absolute distinction between good and bad yarn spinning. Only by using the right yarn and weaving the right cloth can we make the best use of the material, without causing excess quality, and can satisfy customers well. Basic needs for products.
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