Raw material classification, technical indicators and analysis of gray fabrics
The definition of natural cotton cloth: natural cotton cloth for printing and dyeing, which has not been printed or dyed after being woven.
Industrial natural cotton generally refers to fabric, or laminated natural cotton, glued natural cotton, etc.
1. Raw material classification of natural cotton cloth:
(1) Pure fabric: The raw materials making up the fabric all use the same fiber, including cotton fabric, wool fabric, silk fabric, polyester fabric, etc.
(2) Blended chemical fiber fabric: The raw materials that make up the fabric are made of two or more different types of fibers, which are blended with chemical fiber fabrics to form yarns, such as polyester, viscose, polyester, and nitrile. Polyester and cotton blended chemical fiber fabrics.
(3) Blended fabric: The raw material of the fabric is made of single yarns of two types of fibers, which are combined to form strands. There are low-elastic polyester filaments and medium-length blends. , there are also polyester staple fibers and low-elastic polyester filaments mixed into strands, etc.
(4) Interlaced fabric: The raw materials constituting the two-directional system of the fabric are made of different fiber yarns, including antique satin interlaced with silk and rayon, and nylon and rayon interlaced nylon. wait.
Classified according to whether the raw materials constituting the fabric are colored
(1) White fabric: a fabric made from unbleached and dyed raw materials. It is also called raw fabric in silk weaving.
(2) Colored fabric: Fabric is made from bleached and dyed raw materials or fancy threads. Silk weaving is also called cooked fabric.
2. Technical indicators of natural cotton cloth
Fabric length direction
Warp direction, warp yarn, warp density – the length direction of the fabric; the yarns spun in this direction are called warp yarns; the number of spun yarns arranged within 1 inch is the warp density (warp yarn density);
Fabric width direction
Weft direction, weft yarn, weft yarn density – the width direction of the fabric; the yarns spun in this direction are called weft yarns, and the number of yarns arranged within 1 inch is the weft density (weft yarn density);
Density of natural cotton cloth – used to indicate the number of yarns spun in the unit length of woven fabrics, generally the number of yarns spun in 1 inch or 10 cm. my country’s national standards stipulate that 10 cm is used The number of inner-spun yarns indicates density, but fabric companies are still accustomed to using the number of inner-spun yarns in 1 inch to express density. For example, the commonly seen “45X45/108X58” means that the warp and weft yarns are 45 respectively, and the warp and weft densities are 108 and 58.
Effective width – the effective width of the fabric, generally expressed in inches or centimeters, the common ones are 36 inches, 44 inches, 56-60 inches, etc., which are called narrow width, medium width and Wide fabrics, fabrics higher than 60 inches are extra wide and are often called wide fabrics. The effective width of extra wide fabrics in my country today can reach 360 cm. The effective width is generally marked after the density. For example, if the three mentioned fabrics are added with the effective width, it will be expressed as: “45X45/108X58/60″” that is, the effective width is 60 inches.
Weight per square meter – The weight per square meter of fabric is generally the grams of fabric weight per square meter. The weight per square meter is an important technical indicator of knitted fabrics. Woolen woolen cloth is usually also Consider weight per square meter as an important technical indicator. The weight of denim fabric per square meter is generally expressed in “ounces (OZ)”, which is the number of ounces of fabric weight per square yard, such as 7 ounces, 12 ounces of denim, etc.;
Yarn-dyed fabric-called “first-dyed fabric” in Japan, refers to the process of first dyeing the spun yarn or filament, and then using the colored yarn to weave the fabric. This kind of fabric is called “Yan-dyed fabrics”, factories that produce yarn-dyed fabrics are generally called dyeing and weaving factories, such as denim, and most shirt fabrics are yarn-dyed fabrics.
Calculation of the weight of natural cotton fabric per square meter:
The weight per square meter of natural cotton fabric refers to the weight per unit area of the fabric, generally expressed in grams per square meter.
Or expressed in ounces per square yard (oz/Y2). The actual weight per square meter is closely related to the width of the finished product, the printing and dyeing process, the cotton content of the spinning yarn, and the yarn count. The weight per square meter calculation below is a simple formula for reference only.
Calculation of weight per square meter of non-elastic fabric:
a. Color cloth weight per square meter (g/m2):
Weight of finished elastic fabric per square meter (g/m2):
Note: This is the reed width on the machine and the finished door width.
Refer to the above formula for calculating the weight per square meter of finished products of the same category. If the longitude and latitude directions are lines, the weight of the finished product per square meter will be heavier due to twisting and shrinkage, with an increase of approximately 1%. Because open-end spinning has poor cotton mix and more short fibers, the fiber loss rate is greater through the printing, dyeing, desizing and silk finishing processes, so the yarn coefficient is 24 or 24.3*0.95. This coefficient is an empirical formula. For yarns above 32S The count is more accurate.
3. Steps of analyzing cloth samples
One look, two touch, three pull, four twist, five burn, six listen, seven count, eight count
First look: Look at the fabric sample, look at the organization and style
Second touch: touch the feel, initially infer the composition of the fabric, and whether there is any abnormal finishing
Three pulls: Infer whether there is elasticity
Four twists: infer whether it is yarn or thread
Five burning: Determine Cotton or blended chemical fiber fabrics based on combustion characteristics
Six tins: Infer raw material composition based on burning smell
Seven numbers: counting longitude and latitude density
AAAEHRYJUTUTHYER
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