Corduroy fabric
Corduroy is a cotton fabric with cut and raised piles and longitudinal velvet strips formed on the surface. Because the velvet strips resemble rush wicks, it is called corduroy. Types of corduroy There are many types of corduroy. According to the thickness of the velvet strips, it is divided into extra thin strips (more than 19 strips/2.54cm), thin strips (15-19 strips/2.54cm), medium strips (9-14 strips/2.54cm), and thick strips (6-8 strips/2.54cm). 2.54cm), wide strips (less than 6 strips/2.54cm), and intermediate strips (alternating thickness) of corduroy, etc. Generally, thick strips of corduroy are made of strands in the warp direction and single yarns in the weft direction; medium strips of corduroy are made of both warp and weft directions. Use single yarn; thin strips of corduroy can be single yarn or stranded. According to the different yarn structures used, it is divided into full-yarn corduroy, half-line corduroy and full-line corduroy; according to different finishing processes, it is divided into colored corduroy, printed corduroy, yarn-dyed corduroy and jacquard corduroy (jacquard). Corduroy is partially raised to form various patterns). Purpose of Corduroy Corduroy has round and full velvet, wear-resistant velvet, thick texture, soft hand feel and good warmth retention. It is mainly used as autumn and winter outerwear, shoe and hat fabrics, and is also suitable for furniture decoration fabrics, curtains, sofa materials, handicrafts, toys, etc. Cleaning of corduroy When cleaning corduroy, it is not advisable to rub it hard or use a hard-bristled brush to scrub hard. It is advisable to use a soft-bristled brush to gently brush it in the direction of the pile. It is not suitable to iron and it is not suitable to press heavily when collecting to keep the pile full and fluffy. stand. Printed corduroy is generally printed first and then brushed, so the pattern design must consider the effect after brushing, and the pattern should not be slim. Changes in corduroy technology: Frost Flower Corduroy Frost Flower Corduroy was developed in 1993. From 1994 to 1996, it became popular in China’s domestic market, setting off “Frost Flower Fever” from south to north, and then gradually slowed down. After 2000, it began to sell well in the export market. , reached its peak from 2001 to 2004, and is now in steady demand as a conventional corduroy style product. The frost flower technique can be used in various specifications where the pile is cellulose fiber. It uses an oxidation-reduction agent to peel off the dye on the corduroy pile tips to form a frost effect. This effect not only caters to the resurgence of moisture and imitation Moisturizing, it also improves the phenomenon of irregular piles falling down or turning white in areas where corduroy is easy to wear when wearing, and improves the wearing performance and fabric quality. Frost flower products can be made into full frost flower products and spaced frost flower products. Spaced frost flower products can be formed by spacing frost flowers and then blooming them, or by shearing high and low strips. Regardless of the style, it has been highly recognized and popular by the market. So far, the frost flower technique is still a model for adding major style changes to corduroy products. Two-color corduroy The grooves and piles of two-color corduroy present different colors, and through the harmonious combination of the two colors, a product style that is shimmering in blur, full of passion in depth is created, allowing the fabric to be interpreted in both movement and stillness. Produce color transformation effects. The formation of two-color corduroy groove velvet can be achieved through three ways: using the different coloring properties of various types of fibers, changing similar fibers through process changes, and through dyeing and weaving combinations. Among them, it is difficult to produce a two-color effect using similar fibers through process changes, mainly because the reproducibility of the effect is difficult to grasp. Utilize the different coloring properties of various types of fibers to produce a two-color effect: combine the warp yarn, bottom weft, and pile weft with different fibers, and color them with dyes corresponding to the fibers, and then select and match the colors of the different color dyes , forming ever-changing two-color products. For example: polyester, nylon, cotton, linen, viscose, etc., use disperse dyes and acid dyes to dye polyester and nylon, and use dyes to dye cotton as another component. In this way, the coloring process is easy to control and the finished product is relatively stable. Since reactive dyes for dyeing cellulose fibers also have certain dyeing properties for protein fibers, acid dyes can dye silk, wool, and nylon at the same time. Protein fibers cannot withstand the high temperatures required for dispersion and coloring, similar to cotton/wool, wool/ Polyester, silk/brocade and other combinations are not suitable for post-double dyeing process. This method not only caters to the complementary advantages of various fiber raw materials, but also allows it to produce rich style changes. However, the limitation of this method is that the selection of two raw materials must be completely different and independent of each other. The coloring performance must also meet the requirements that one coloring process cannot damage the performance of another fiber. Therefore, most of these products are a combination of chemical fibers and cellulose fibers, and polyester-cotton two-color products are easy to grasp. They are most mature and have become a major popular product in the industry. Similar fibers produce two-color effects through process changes: This refers to the production of groove and velvet two-color products on corduroy of the same raw material, mostly referring to cellulose fibers, which can be produced through frosting, coloring, PU coating, printing and other techniques. Achieve it by matching and changing. Frost-dyed two-color is generally suitable for products with dark background/glossy surface, color-coated two-color is mostly suitable for medium-light base/dark surface distressed products, and printed two-color can be used for various color combinations, but it is selective for dyes. 1) Frost-dyed two-color products: For extremely light complexions and extremely dark background colors, reactive or paint can be used to directly over-dye. The process is convenient and intuitive, and has little impact on the background color; but for darker complexions, direct over-dying can be used Dyeing will cause a great discoloration of the background color. Although this factor can be considered when dyeing the background color, the two-color product itself has complex interactions between the surface and background colors, and there is no sample simulation equipment, making color matching difficult, such as Then use two colors to synthesize the background color, which is not too shabby.In fact, although a small amount of colors can be improvised, for the process formulation of a large category of products, this method is not very operable. Therefore, the authentic two-color product color is based on the single-sided coloring of reactive dyes on a single-sided dyeing machine. host. And from the actual production point of view, the combination of vulcanized deep bottom and active bright surface will have more ideal effect, easy operation and stable quality. Frost-dyed products are quite high-end, but the difficulty of this variety lies in the control of the proportions of the surface and the base. On the one hand, it is the basis to grasp the degree of frost white peeling; on the other hand, the thickness of the top color should be slightly larger than the peeled color. The height makes the complexion look not thin but fuller. 2) Color-coated two-color products: The process is mostly used for two-color products with a light bottom and a dark surface. The fabric is usually conventionally colored first, and then the colored corduroy suede surface is coated with different-color pigments to form a two-color color. The final effect is then produced by finishing the fabric or garment. Since the complexion is darker than the base color and is painted with paint, which has good hiding properties, there is a wide range of base color dyes to choose from, including reactive dyes, sulfur dyes, and Shilin dyes. Use paint to repair or perform soft finishing to avoid affecting the color and fastness of the paint. There are two methods of color coating: PU coating and printing. The pigment is evenly applied on the surface of the fabric on the PU coating machine or the printing machine. This method is difficult to control during production, and the grooves are often coated. On the color, the real two-color reflection after the finished product is the different colors on both sides of the pile roots, pile peaks and pile grooves, and the feel and fastness of the product at this time are not very good. Therefore, this type of product must also go through a post-finishing process to meet the fabric wearing needs. In addition, through different post-finishing, it can also produce a very faded and distressed effect, which is more in line with modern fashion trends. Post-finishing is usually done after the finished garment, and the post-finishing methods include soft washing, sand washing, enzyme washing, etc. 3) Printed and double-dyed products: As the name suggests, printing techniques are used when dyeing the suede. It mainly refers to dyed bottom surface printing products, and the face color uses dye instead of pigment. If the color of the pile pit is required to be light and the color of the suede is dark, usually the light base is dyed first, and then one side is directly overprinted; if the base color is darker or the base is dark/dark and the side is light/bright, sulfur dyeing can be used The base is white and then printed on a single side; if the base is dark and bright and cannot be dyed by vulcanization chromatography, the only way to imitate release printing is to use reactive dyeing. There is a certain thickness between the peaks and grooves of the corduroy pile. In order for the fabric to absorb the printing slurry evenly, a certain amount of pressure must be applied. However, after the slurry is under pressure, it will penetrate from the pile peaks to the pile roots and grooves. Poor operation can easily cause The velvet and furrows are colored at the same time, so the pressure should not be too great. Therefore, the control of the middle margin, the front and rear discontinuity, the non-dyeing control of the velvet dyeing groove, and the uniformity control during the production process are all more difficult than ordinary printing and frost machine frost dyeing products. Therefore, for every production, many preliminary tests must be done. The equipment used for printing double-dyed products is similar to that of general printing products, mainly roller printing machines and rotary screen printing machines. The key to production is to control the engraving depth of the floral tube, the mesh number of the rotary screen, the sizing pressure and the consistency of the color paste. In short, it is better to keep the color evenly without bleeding to the back, but it is more difficult to control the color without staining the velvet. This process is mostly used for reactive bright bases that cannot be achieved by vulcanization chromatography. Compared with frost-dyed products, the two-color effect is dull.
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