Textile fabric knowledge: cloth inspection standards and special terms for fabric defects
Cloth Inspection Standards The most common inspection method for cloth is the “four-point scoring method.” On this “four-point scale”, a high score of four points for any single flaw. No matter how many defects there are in the fabric, the defect score for each linear yard (Linear yard) must not exceed four points. For defects in longitude, latitude and other directions, the defect score will be evaluated according to the following standards: One point: The length of the defect is 3 inches or less. Two points: The length of the defect is greater than 3 inches and less than 6 inches. Three points: The length of the defect is greater than 6 inches but less than 9 inches. Four Points: Defect length greater than 9 inches. For severe defects, each yard of defect will be rated four points. For example: All holes, regardless of diameter, will be rated four points. For continuous defects, such as: rungs, edge-to-edge color differences, narrow seals or irregular fabric widths, creases, uneven coloring, etc., each yard of defects should be rated four points. The score for each yard defect shall not exceed four points. In principle, after each roll of cloth is inspected, the scores obtained can be added up. Then the grade is evaluated according to the acceptance level. However, since different cloth envelopes require different acceptance levels, if the following formula is used to calculate the score of each roll of cloth per 100 square yards, it only needs to formulate a score per 100 square yards. The specified score under the code can be used to evaluate the grade of different cloth seals. (Total score*36*100)/(number of inspected yards*width of cloth that can be cut)=score per 100 square yards. Specific terminology for fabric defects Barre – For knitted fabrics, this defect is characterized by some uneven patterns that usually appear in the fabric courses or in the cross direction of the fabric. Uneven spinning threads, uneven spinning thread tension, and spinning threads with different dye affinities may be the reasons for this. Bad Place – This is a very convenient term for fabric defects that are difficult to describe in words. This term is often used to describe those places where the fabric’s weave has been severely damaged. Bias (refer to weft bias) – In woven fabrics, this defect refers to the dimensional deviation of the weft and warp yarns; in knitted fabrics, this refers to the fabric courses and Where dimensional deviation occurs in the wale of fabric. Birdseye Defect – For knitted fabrics, this condition refers to the occasional and irregular tuck pattern that is contrary to the fabric design. Bow – for woven fabrics, this refers to the weft yarns lying in an arc across the width of the fabric; for knitted fabrics, this refers to the loop courses running in an arc Located across the width of the fabric. Broken End – This defect refers to the place where the warp yarn has been broken and repaired. Its common feature is that the broken ends can be seen woven into the fabric. Broken Color Pattern – In woven fabrics, this condition refers to a discontinuity in the pattern, resulting in an error in drawing the color pattern through the loom thread or damage to the fabric when the weft yarn breaks. Improper resetting of the image filling chain after the machine has been repaired may cause this defect; for knitted fabrics, this situation is caused by an error in shuttle bobbin change. Broken pick – This is a condition where the weft thread is missing across part of the width of the fabric due to a break in the weft thread. Bruise – (Refer to Temple Defect) – This condition refers to the fact that the fibers are losing their sense of direction and the appearance of the fabric is distorted due to wear and tear of the yarn being knitted or the fabric that has been knitted. Burl mark – This is a deformation caused by an excess of certain substances, including slubs, waste, and loose yarn that are being removed with repair tools. Buttonhole selvage – This is a fabric selvage defect caused by excess tension that builds up on the loom shuttle prior to replacing the weft yarn. This tension tends to restrict the selvedge weft from falling off and interlacing properly, creating an imperfection similar to a buttonhole. Chafed Yarn – This defect refers to the frayed yarn. After the spun yarn is frayed, the fiber will lose its sense of direction and the spun yarn will be distorted. This defect affects the colorability of the yarn and often results in radial stripes or weft streaks. Chopped Filling – This defect is an imbalance in the weft direction and is characterized by a distinct or uniform pattern caused by the eccentric behavior of the drawing roller. Clip mark – This defect is an area of fabric that is not dyed. This defect is caused by small metal clips that are clamped to the edge of the fabric. These small clips are used to prevent or Used to correct fabric selvedge folding during coloring. Coarse End – This condition refers to a situation where the diameter of one warp yarn is significantly larger than the normal diameter of the fabric’s warp yarns. Coarse Pick – This condition refers to a situation where the diameter of one of the weft yarns is significantly larger than the diameter of the normal weft yarns of the fabric. Coarse yarn defect (Coarse Yarn) – This situation refers to the defect of one yarn count.The diameter should be significantly larger than the diameter of the normal yarn count of the fabric. Cockled Fabric – In knitted fabrics, these defects are wrinkles, wrinkles, or bulges that do not lie flat on the cutting table. The reason for this phenomenon may be due to the irregular twisting of the spinning yarn, the uneven tension of the spinning yarn during the knitting process, or the reaction of the spinning yarn in the fabric during the finishing process. The degree is uneven. Cockled Yarn – This is a condition where some of the fibers in a spun yarn appear to be curled and the direction of the fibers cannot be distinguished. The reason for this situation is that some spinning fibers are too long relative to the drawing roller, causing the fiber to be clamped by the following drawing roller before the previous drawing roller loosens the fiber. This will cause the fibers to break and curl. Twisted yarn looks like tiny twists in the fabric. Color Fly – This condition refers to the appearance of fiber impurities of different colors in the yarn or fabric. Color Misdraw – For woven fabrics, this condition refers to the fact that the colored yarn depicted by the loom thread is opposite to the color pattern and/or texture design; for warp knitting For fabrics, this means that the colored yarn and pattern design drawn by the guide rod are opposite. Color Out – During the printing process, if the color paste in the storage tank is almost used up, it will cause blank spots in the printing pattern. Color Smear – This condition is caused by the deformation of the pattern caused by the application of pigment during the printing process. Compactor Crease – For knitted fabrics, this defect refers to hard creases caused by the use of wrinkled fabrics during the shrinkage control and stabilization process. Corrugation (refer to pre-shrunk hidden wrinkle defect) – This defect is a washboard phenomenon caused by the thick pad of the pre-shrunk finishing machine that is not working properly. Cover – This term is generally used to describe defects in the surface properties of fabrics, such as the number of warp and weft yarns, the prominence or absence of patterns, and other defects that can be caused by changing one of the two spinning yarn systems. system to obtain the desired characteristics. Crease – This defect refers to creases caused by the fabric folding on itself under pressure. Crease Streak – This defect is the visible after-effect of creases in fabric during coloring or finishing work. Damaged – This condition means that the fabric has been damaged and can no longer be used for its intended purpose. Doctor Streak
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