Reference design method
Since there are many factors that affect the tightness and density of fabric warp and weft yarns, none of the above calculation formulas can be summarized, and the calculated results will always have certain deviations. In fact, when designing products, they are often initially determined by referring to similar varieties, and then revised through production trial weaving. Moreover, certain types of fabrics always have their own specific tightness range, which is determined by its performance and style. Even new fabric varieties are often based on similar varieties. Therefore, designers should be familiar with the tightness ranges and product specifications of various fabrics. When determining the warp and weft density (or tightness) of a fabric, there is another issue that must be paid attention to and grasped, that is, the tightness determines the performance and style of the fabric, not only the warp tightness, weft tightness and total tightness. The size of the degree value and the ratio of meridional and latitudinal tightness also have an important impact. The relationship between the warp and weft tightness of various types of fabrics has the following three situations. (1) The meridional tightness is greater than the latitudinal tightness, that is, Ej>Ew. (2) The meridional tightness is approximately equal to the latitudinal tightness, that is, Ej≈Ew. (3) The meridional tightness is less than the latitudinal tightness, that is, Ej < Ew. Most fabrics belong to the above-mentioned category and the second category, but there are also a few fabrics. Due to the needs of their structure and style, the weft tightness is greater than the warp tightness, such as satin and corduroy in cotton fabrics, and wool fabrics. Some coats, jacquard blankets, brocades in silk fabrics, etc. In the first and second types of situations, we should also pay attention to the ratio of longitude and weft density. The difference in warp and weft density ratio will cause changes in fabric tightness and appearance style. Cotton fabrics have a wide range of tightness, from voile with very little tightness to khaki with extremely tightness. The difference in the density ratio between longitude and latitude is also very large. The general tightness range of common natural fabrics is shown in Table 4-6, and the tightness of some colored fabrics is shown in Table 4-7.
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