A review of fabric performance and style formation
The performance and style of fabrics are formed by many factors, from raw materials, spinning yarns to fabric structure, pattern colors, printing and dyeing finishing, etc. When designing fabrics, various means should be used comprehensively to achieve the performance and style required by this variety. This book only starts from the performance and style requirements of the fabric and reviews its general formation methods as a reference for variety design. 1. Formation of common properties of fabrics (1) Lightness, weight and thickness of fabrics: The lightness, weight and thickness of fabrics can be formed by changes in the thickness, density and structure of the spinning yarn. If the yarn is thin and the density is low, the fabric will be light and thin; if the yarn is thick and the density is high, the fabric will be heavy. Light and thin fabrics commonly use plain weave, perforated, leno and other weaves; medium-thick fabrics commonly use twill, satin weave, change, union and other weaves; thick and heavy fabrics commonly use heavy weave, double layer, raised, pile and other weaves. Due to the different tightness of various types of tissues, plain weave fabrics cannot be as tight and thick as twill and satin weave fabrics; while twill and satin weave fabrics that are too thin will appear loose and weak. (2) Fabric strength: Fabric strength depends on fiber properties, spinning yarn structure and warp and weft density. The strength of the fabric can be improved by adopting high-strength fibers, improving the grade of raw materials, increasing the twist within a certain range, using combed yarns and plied yarns, and increasing the density of warp and weft. (3) Hygroscopicity and breathability of fabrics: The hygroscopicity of fabrics is also related to the antistatic properties of fabrics. These properties depend on the fiber raw material and the tightness of the fabric. To adjust these properties of the fabric, different fibers can be used to blend chemical fiber fabrics, but attention should be paid to the selection of the blended chemical fiber fabric ratio. The hygroscopicity and antistatic properties of polyester blended chemical fiber fabrics and polyester-viscose blended chemical fiber fabrics are quite different. Reducing the ratio of synthetic fiber blends to chemical fiber fabrics can improve the fabric’s moisture absorption and air permeability. Low-density fabrics and structures that can form pores on the surface make the fabric more breathable. (4) Softness, elasticity and body of the fabric: These properties first depend on the properties of the fiber, but are also related to the yarn structure and fabric structure. Mixing polyester, increasing the twist of the yarn, increasing the density of the fabric, and adopting a structure with a shorter average floating length can increase the rigidity of the fabric and improve the body structure. Viscose fabrics are soft to the touch and comfortable to wear, but if the viscose fabrics are not tight enough, they are often too weak and lack body. The body structure of polyester/viscose fabrics is greatly improved, while wool/polyester fabrics have good elasticity and crispness. Although voile is a thin cotton fabric, it is still relatively crisp and has a certain body due to its strong twisted yarn and plain weave. The use of thicker fibers in wool fabrics and thicker monofilaments in chemical fiber fabrics can increase the rigidity of the fabric and improve the body structure. Silk-like fabrics should use finer monofilaments to improve the softness of the fabric. 2. The formation of fabric surface state and appearance characteristics The surface state and appearance characteristics of fabrics are diverse, and their formation methods are also different. (1) The surface of the fabric is flat, smooth or the formation of lines: If the surface of the fabric is required to be flat and without lines, plain weave can be used; if the surface is required to be smooth, satin weave can be used; and various twill weaves will form on the surface of the fabric. Twill texture. The depth and width of the texture depend on the thickness of the spinning yarn, the length of the warp and weft floating lengths, the warp and weft density ratio and the structural phase. (2) The formation of a perfect surface of the fabric; using good fibers, no twisting or less twisting, and using a structure with a longer floating length can make the surface of the fabric good, such as cotton weaving with horizontal satin and silk weaving with Finish spinning, soft satin, etc. The surface of the fiber is soft and shiny, the surface of the spun yarn is hairy, the twist is large, the crepe structure is used, and the fabric is milled, etc., which can make the surface of the fabric soft and shiny, such as cotton fabrics with medium and high special yarns, various crepe fabrics, wool fabrics, etc. . (3) Formation of crepe effect on fabric surface: The elastic contraction of elastic fibers and elastic yarns can be used to make fabrics crepe, such as spandex fabrics; the contraction of strong twisted yarns can be used to make crepe, such as cotton crepe, silk georgette, and crepe de chine. ; The use of crepe weave can make the fabric obtain a crepe effect, such as wool crepe, which is also common in cotton and silk weaving; the use of weaving technology can also make the surface of the fabric crepe to form a bubble shape, such as cotton-dyed seersucker; in During the fabric dyeing and finishing process, physical or chemical methods can also be used to make fabrics crepe and foam, such as crepe fabrics, printed and dyed seersuckers, etc. (4) The formation of velvet on the surface of the fabric; the velvet on the surface of the fabric can be dense or long, and can be standing upright or lying down. Their formation methods are also different. The raised tissue can form wool after being opened and finished; the towel tissue can form terry; the general tissue fabric can also form plush on the surface of the fabric through mechanical drawing or sanding, such as brushed, sanded, woolen fabrics, etc.; in addition , the pile yarn can also be planted on the base fabric by mechanical action, or the pile yarn can be planted on the fabric surface through high-voltage static electricity. The former is like a tufted fabric, and the latter is an electrostatic flocking fabric. (5) Formation of pattern effect on the surface of the fabric: The pattern on the surface of the fabric can be plain or colored; it can be a small pattern or a large pattern; it can be flat or concave and convex; It can also be raised or looped. Various pattern formation methods can apply changes in fabric structure, and other methods can also be adopted. Such as plain jacquard and pattern in light fabrics.Leno, fancy corduroy, warp (weft) patterned fabrics among medium-thick fabrics, color matching patterns, internal and external exchange structures, jacquard towels, brocades, etc. Other methods of forming patterns include burnout, cut flowers, and copying. Flowers, embroidery, printing, and manual planting according to patterns, etc. (6) Formation of the stripe effect on the surface of the fabric: the stripe effect can be formed by adopting a stripe structure, or by arranging the color warp and color weft to form colored stripes and colored grids. The color matching pattern can form vertical and horizontal stripes, satin strips and satin strips. Lattice is also a commonly used method. Worsted wool tweed and cotton woven men’s yarn often use inlaid threads to create a vertical strip effect. Spinning yarns with different twist directions are arranged at intervals to form hidden strips and hidden grid effects. (7) Formation of perforation effect on fabric surface: Light and thin fabrics often require the formation of small holes or gaps on the surface. The purpose can be achieved by using leno weave, perforated weave, linen weave, thin plain weave and the flower box wearing method. (8) The formation of flashing and color flashing effects on the fabric surface: Flashing and color flashing are common appearance effects of fabrics. In order to obtain the flash effect, the raw materials can be made of lustrous fibers, such as flash brocade silk, gold and silver aluminum skin, etc. for yarn-dyed weaving, and the satin weft pattern or other changes can be used in the texture. In order to obtain the flashing effect, the warp and weft yarns should adopt contrasting colors, and the fabric structure should adopt plain weave or 2/1 twill with shorter and closer warp and weft floating lengths. In terms of technology, yarn-dyed or yarn-dyed weaving can be used. When white weaving, two raw materials with different coloring properties are used, such as viscose fiber and acetate silk, viscose fiber and mulberry silk. After weaving, they are scoured and dyed to obtain different colors in the warp and weft. When yarn-dyed, the warp and weft are first dyed in contrasting colors and then woven. (9) The formation of the wool-like, linen-like and silk-like effects of fabrics: First of all, the raw materials and spinning yarns must be “imitated”. Various special-shaped fibers, modified fibers, and laminated fibers are commonly used to achieve effects similar to those of the imitated fibers. For example, polyester trilobed yarn and fine denier yarn are used to imitate silk; network yarn and bulked yarn are used to imitate wool; flat mesoporous fibers, polygonal fibers, and knotted yarn are used to imitate linen. Corresponding measures should also be taken in terms of fabric organization and warp and weft density. For example, the density of chemical fiber wool-like fabrics should be slightly lower than that of pure wool fabrics. Cotton linen yarn is a linen-like fabric with changes in fabric structure. Finishing is an important aspect of fabric “profiling” technology. For example, wool-like fabrics need loose finishing, resin finishing, shaping, etc. Linen-like finishing includes stiff finishing, resin finishing, etc. Silk-like finishing includes alkali reduction treatment, soft finishing, etc. These fabrics generally require antistatic finishing.
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